This post contains affiliate links in which we earn a commission at no cost to you.
Beamed entryways are a foolproof way to upgrade multiple rooms in your home in just one go. These simple, yet stylish pieces make a space look that much more finished without a ton of effort. We completed this project going from our front door into the study, and study into our dining room. It helps make everything look more connected and completely matches the aesthetic of our home.
This post will give you the materials and steps you need to complete easy DIY beamed entryways in just a few weekends. We’ll show you what we did, but feel free to tweak and adjust based on what your home needs!
Table of Contents:
Wood Needed (per beam):
(Qty 6) 1x4x8 - Side Pieces (length needed may vary depending on your opening, and you can also use 1x5’s here for a chunkier look)
(Qty 3) 1x5x8 - Middle Pieces (again, length may vary depending on your own measurements)
Other Materials Needed:
Tools Needed:
Saw (we have a compound miter saw, but these are easy cuts and can be done with a circular or manual saw)
Our Before
Step 1: Plan + Measure
All successful projects start with inspiration and a plan on what’s to be accomplished. This step is crucial to ensure you buy the right width and length of wood for the entryway. For us, we had some tight wall spaces to one side, so we chose to go with skinnier 1x4 sides, accompanied with 1x5 middles. However, if you have the room and want chunkier, more square looking beams, use 1x5’s for everything.
You’ll want to at the very least base your middle piece on how wide your entryway is without the original trim. Most homes (not all) are 3.5” wide because it’s a simple 1x4 stud, plus you have a ½” of drywall on both sides making a total of 4.5” to cover, so the 1x5 (actually 4.5”) will do the trick. But again, always measure and be sure you have what you need.
For the length, we didn’t have anything over 8’ (72”), so that length worked great, but if you have larger spaces to cover, you can buy pieces in 10’ or 12’ in length.
Step 2: Remove Old Trim
We always like to do this before going to the hardware store so we can triple check our measurements and find any problem areas that might require extra tooling or material. So you don’t damage the wall or rip the paint around the trim:
Run a blade around the edges to break built up paint or caulk
Use a trim puller to start removing the actual pieces. You can use a hammer here, but the likelihood of putting a dent in your drywall is very high!
Remove any nails that might be stuck (we use vice grips for easier pulling)
Scrape off any gobs of paint/caulk so you have a smooth surface
Now you can re-measure and be sure you’re ready to go!
Step 3: Assemble the Top Beam
The next step is to cut your pieces to length for assembly of the top beam. Batch cutting (cutting all your pieces at once) saves time, but if you only have a few beams to make, you can always cut as you go if that makes you more comfortable. Because we only had two entryways to do, we felt it safer to do our top beams first and then our sides so we could make 100% certain we had the right length on the sides. It added more time, but it saved us in case we screwed up the cuts!
To make the top beam, you want your middle 1x5 piece to be the exact length of your opening, that way it nestles right in. Your side 1x4 pieces, however, should be 7” longer than that middle length. That will account for the 3.5” of each side piece.
Once you’ve cut your pieces, you can sand them now or after they’re assembled. It’s all preferential, but we prefer to sand before everything is put together so that way it can be flat on a surface. Remember to use a lower number grit sandpaper first (like 60 or 80) and then a finer grit (like 220) for a smoother finish
Now that it’s time to assemble, lay the pieces out on a table or the floor and do one side at a time. Be sure to mark 3.5” in on each side of the side pieces so you know where they should land. First apply wood glue to the edge of the middle piece and then place the first side piece up to it. Align your marks for the side piece and use 1” brad nails to firmly secure it. If you don’t have a nail gun, just use a regular hammer and nails. Repeat that same process for the other side and wipe away any glue leaking out.
Using some of the scraps from cutting the wood, place them in the middle of the beam so the sides are less likely to cave in. Then, turn the beam over onto your table or floor and use some clamps to hold everything in place to dry.
Most wood glues dry in less than an hour, however it’s not fully secure and cured until 24 hours. So, wait until the next day to attach the top beams to the wall.
Step 4: Attach the Top Beam to the Wall
After you’ve waited the day, it’s time to attach the beam to the wall. This is always easier to do with a partner, so bring a friend to this one! Before lifting the beam up, check to make sure no drywall chunks are hanging down and the opening is smooth. Use your razor blade to square things off as needed.
To attach the beam to the wall, you’ll need to angle it in so the openings fit over the side walls, but after that, start lifting the beam up from the center so it goes up as equally as possible and doesn’t get caught on the sides. If it does get caught, use a mallet and a piece of wood (so you don’t damage the beam) to knock past any uneven waves in your walls. Tap a little bit on one side, and then another little bit on the other. You don’t want to go up too high, too fast on any one side.
Once at the top and the beam is snug to the wall, use your nail gun and 2” brad nails to secure it into place. Nail both up from the middle and then also on the side pieces (now the top) so everything is firm to the wall. If the top beam pieces aren’t 100% flat because your walls are uneven, that’s ok, that’s what the caulk is for at the end.
Step 5: Assemble the Side Beams
Now that your top beam is up, you can re-measure how tall the side beams need to be. Measure from the floor to the bottom of the top beam to get what you need. At this point, you’ll also want to make sure that any floor trim has been trimmed back. Measure 3.5” over from the edge of the opening. If any floor trim is in the way, we use a multitool to cut it away.
The side beams are much easier to assemble as all 3 sides will be the same length. Cut your pieces and then use the same method from the top beam to secure it together. Again, remember to wait 24 hours before attaching to the wall.
Step 6: Attach the Side Beams to the Wall
Use the same attachment method as the top beam, just on the sides. Tap with a mallet and wood if you need to and then secure into place with the nail gun.
Now your beams are up!
Step 7: Fill Holes + Final Sanding
You’ve more than likely used quite a few nails by now to make sure your beams are in place, so you’ll want to patch them with wood fill. After filling all the holes, use some light sandpaper again to make sure everything is smooth and then tack cloth it down so there’s no residue remaining.
Step 8: Stain
At this point, we stained our beams in place on the wall. If you have a steady hand, you can get away with not taping the walls around it, but we of course don’t so we taped our walls to protect the paint. We used two coats of stain for our beams, but again, based on the style you’re going for, you could use more or less.
Step 9: Caulk it in
Now the final step, caulk. Caulk in your beams against the wall so everything looks smooth, finished and like they were always there.
Our After
Conclusion
All-in-all, these beams are easy to make and really add that extra style your room may need. You can certainly complete this project in less time than we did by making your top and side beams at the same time, but as the old adage goes, “measure twice, cut once!”
Comments